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A Season for the Senses
by matt werbach
After a summer that seemed to sputter at the start and finish with a fury of sun and heat, the fall has arrived all at once. Pear and heirloom apple seasons are in full swing. Grapes are being plucked from the vine and bottled up for winter, and pumpkins are approaching their full size. The jet stream held cooler temperatures and wetter weather north of the Pacific Northwest for a few extra days, which kept the Columbia Gorge warm and sunny for almost all of September. Then in just a day it all seems to have turned.
I drive hundreds of miles on I-84 each week between Portland and Hood River—often even further east—but just when the driving begins to wear on me the seasons flip over, and I once again have to force myself to keep my eyes on the road. There was no gradual transition to autumn this year. It was as if a curtain was raised at the start of a show and the entire set had been changed. I could almost hear the gasps from the crowd. There were a few signs—the winds died, then switched direction as they roared back to life; the fog began to pick up as mornings cooled down—but for the most part this fall took full advantage of the element of surprise. Now that its beautiful oranges and reds have been revealed I am left with that familiar feeling of a sort of tranquil excitement, of a fresh new way to look at things, and of course, a gentle sadness at the passing of another summer.
Apple Cider and pumpkin pie. Dry leaves crackling under-foot. The first few inches of soft white snow falling thousands of feet up the mountainsides. I find myself presented with a choice when the fall bursts through. I can sit and reflect on the days of summer gone by, or I can embrace what lies ahead—a season for the senses. Warm sun on my face is replaced with a cool breeze carrying the scent of fallen leaves. Tourists and weekend warriors head back to their homes and batten down the hatches while locals venture out into the land they love. Is there anything more perfect than an empty hiking trail now that its scenery is painted with a fall brush? White wines sound less appealing than warm and robust reds, and hops season is fully upon us with local brewers pushing their newest blends. I choose to embrace the way this season makes me feel with its tastes and sounds. I will miss the steady warmth of summer, but that balance of sadness to see a season go and excitement for the next is just one more thing I love about the Columbia Gorge.
For weeks now I will carry my camera with me in an attempt to capture some small part of the wonder surrounding me. It never quite works. What stops me in my tracks as I walk, drive or hike around the area doesn’t seem to translate in a still image. I’ve grown comfortable with this sort of inevitable failure or short-fall. These moments captured in digital format now serve as a reminder of the emotions a bright yellow tree inspires as it jumps forward from the dark green background of pines. The pictures are like mementos left behind from people no longer with us. They carry an often eerie reminder or a subtle scent of what once was but will never be again. Not having them would give birth to a whirlwind of emotions—a deep seeded feeling of loss—but having them doesn’t begin to do justice to the real thing, to being there.
The soft scratch of pencil on paper is another constant companion of mine. It has its shortcomings too. I can record the way autumn sounds with comparisons and descriptions, or I can endlessly expound on the feelings it stirs up, but the fall season with its accompanying splendor is elusive. Still, it’s worth every effort to encapsulate just one fleeting moment of this splendid time of the year, and to be able to share that, or at the very least carry it with me for a while.
The only way I have found to truly embrace autumn is to absorb it in every way feasible. The taste of a crisp cold apple just off the tree is only available for a short time, as is the smell of toasting pumpkin seeds. The chance to hear brittle leaves crunching under your feet or rustling as they dance in the wind will soon pass. And the look—what more can be said about the visual feast that fall offers. Soon trees will be bare, snow will blanket much of the area and Mount Hood and Mount Adams will be glowing in their fresh white coats. This fall I will exhaust myself as my senses devour all they take in. Autumn serves as a reminder that winter isn’t far behind, and we all understand that next spring and summer will be upon us before we know it. I choose not to reflect on the season lost or the one bearing down on me, but instead to imbibe the current season, the season of the senses.
Tags: adams, apple, autumn, burst, calm, cider, color, columbia, crackling, drive, embrace, fall, gorge, grape, heirloom, hike, hood, imbibe, leaves, locals, orange, paper, peace, pear, pencil, photo, pie, pumpkin, red, season, senses, smell, snow, sounds, spring, still, summer, taste, trail, tranquil, trees, Visitor's Center, wine, write, yellow
The Local Flavor is Sustainability
matt werbach
It is hard to have missed the turn American food culture has taken in the last few years. Whether it’s the escalating gas prices of the last couple summers or the popularity of books like The Omnivore’s Dilemma and Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, many in the country have taken a more responsible role in what they put into their bodies. Here in the Columbia Gorge, the idea of buying local, sustainable and organic is nothing new. It has been the backbone of our much celebrated food culture for decades.
According to a study by the Leopold Center for Sustainable Agriculture, 39 percent of the fruit and 78 percent of fish and shellfish consumed in the United State are purchased from other countries. These numbers, and many others like them, have led to a wide range of reactions from Americans.
Environmentalists concerned with rising CO2 levels are revolted by the distance food travels to reach the plate. Millions of gallons of gasoline are used to ship food around the country. Those concerned with their local economy fear the impact importing food has on nearby farms, seed producers and markets. Even those simply concerned with saving money have taken notice of the spike in food prices when gas becomes more expensive.
People concerned with their health have found much to fear in recent studies. The inclusion of corn in so many of the foods Americans eat was exposed in Ian Cheney and Curt Ellis’ hit documentary King Corn and Michael Pollan’s bestselling book The Omnivore’s Dilemma. These works highlighted the homogeneous nature of the modern diet and its inherent health risks. Barbara Kingsolver’s bestselling book Animal, Vegetable, Miracle chronicled her family’s attempts to grow and raise all the food they needed over the course of a year.
Here in the Columbia Gorge, these battles are easy to win. The adjacent communities have utilized conditions ideal for growing some of the country’s best fruits, raising livestock and producing a wide variety of wines. These cities and towns don’t simply produce great foods, they celebrate them.
This summer visitors and residents alike will join together in commemoration of the local fruits. In July, Hood River celebrated the cherry and in September it will celebrate, the pear. Early estimates hinted at as many as 16 to 18 million boxes of cherries to be picked this season. Gravenstein apples will have their time in the sun in August. Even the lesser known and often overlooked fruits get in on the party. Apple Valley Country Store will celebrate the Huckleberry August 15 and 16.
These fruits are as local as can be. The celebrations often take place right in the fields and orchards where the produce grows. The popularity of selecting your own apple or pear right off the tree has led to U-pick orchards blossoming all over the region.
The stores and markets from Goldendale to Troutdale never miss a chance to tout their local products. Jellies, jams, syrups and sauces are made from almost every regional fruit.
Locally raised or caught meats, from lamb to salmon, can be found at area markets and grocers. Being a resident of the Columbia Gorge means there’s little challenge to putting together a meal that is 100% local, and there is no lack of variety to this diet either.
Don’t have the time or desire to cook? Many of the restaurants that dot both sides of the Columbia River feature fresh local ingredients. Area chefs pride themselves on utilizing indigenous flavors in unique and consistent ways. Menus have to be more adaptable in order to embrace these neighborhood ingredients. Chefs like Matt McGowan of The Glass Onion in Goldendale are constantly changing menus to offer ripe vegetables and fruits, and to take advantage of seasonal events like salmon runs. As Riverside Grill chef Mark DeResta recently said in our Summer issue, “if it’s not fresh, we won’t use it.”
There is no better pairing to the fare of the region than Columbia Gorge wines. Red or white, dry or robust, simple or complex, they are second to none. A visitor to the area could spend the whole summer exploring the different wineries. Even residents who have lived their entire lives here haven’t run out of new wines to taste. Whether you find yourself at Erin Glenn Vineyards sampling any number of local varieties, at McMenamins Edgefield enjoying great music with your wine or you’re just purchasing an award winning bottle from Cathedral Ridge to share with that special someone, there is a neighborhood wine for you.
Those who live in the Columbia Gorge display great pride for the products they bring to the table. There is a feeling of satisfaction and delight when you can locate the farm that raised the beef you are serving. Grandma can dish out cherry pie filled with the cherries her grandkids picked earlier that day. From seed to tree, from calf to cow, so many of the foods eaten in the Columbia Gorge come from farms and orchards just down the road.
If you’re visiting this summer, or just passing through, don’t forget to ask a nearby business, grocery or shop owner what’s good this time of year or where to grab a great meal. Tasting the perfect filet of salmon caught right outside the front door, prepared in exquisite fashion and paired with a wine from just a few miles away is an experience unique to the Columbia Gorge.
There is a feeling of satisfaction—a sweeter taste—when you know you’ve helped out the environment, done something healthy and boosted the local economy while simply eating your lunch.
Tags: animal, apple, cherries, cherry, columbia gorge, columbia river, corn, economy, food, glass onion, Goldendale, gravenstein, Hood River, miracle, orchard, oregon, pear, riverside, salmon, sustainability, Troutdale, vegetable, washington
